Benefits of Natural Infused Waters

Introduction

Beyond just watering your garden, imagine actively *feeding* your plants through their roots and leaves with beneficial homemade concoctions. This isn’t some mystical gardening secret; it’s the powerful practice of utilizing natural infused waters. These aren’t your typical tap water solutions; they are carefully crafted liquids, brimming with life and nutrients, designed to supercharge your garden’s health and productivity. Think of them as liquid gold for your green friends, turning ordinary hydration into an extraordinary boost.

Natural infused waters in a gardening context encompass a fascinating array of homemade elixirs. We’re talking about nutrient-rich brews like compost tea, dynamic fermented plant extracts (FPEs), revitalizing worm castings tea, and targeted herbal infusions. Each of these concoctions harnesses the power of natural processes – decomposition, fermentation, and extraction – to create a bio-available feast for your plants and their surrounding soil. The beauty lies in their simplicity, efficacy, and the sustainable approach they offer.

So, why go to the “bother” of making these infused waters? The reasons are compelling: you’ll significantly reduce your reliance on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, fostering a truly organic and environmentally friendly garden. These natural solutions dramatically improve soil health, building a robust microbiome that supports vigorous plant growth and resilience. Plus, they are incredibly cost-effective, often utilizing materials you already have or can easily source, turning garden waste into garden wealth. In this article, you’ll discover the diverse types of infused waters, their specific benefits, detailed instructions on how to create them, and the best ways to apply them for a thriving, resilient garden.

Nutritional Information

Per serving (approximate values):

• Calories: 0
• Protein: 0g
• Carbohydrates: 0g
• Fat: 0g
• Fiber: 0g
• Sodium: 0mg

Ingredients

This section outlines the ingredients for various natural infused waters. You will select the specific ingredients based on the type of infused water you wish to make.

For Actively Aerated Compost Tea (AACT):

• 1 gallon (approx. 3.8 liters) unchlorinated water (rainwater, distilled, or tap water left out for 24-48 hours)
• 1-2 cups high-quality, mature compost (from a well-maintained compost pile)
• 1-2 tablespoons unsulphured blackstrap molasses (optional, as a microbial food source)
• Mesh bag (paint strainer bag, old pantyhose, or fine mesh laundry bag)
• Aquarium air pump with air stone and tubing

For Simple Fermented Plant Extract (FPE):

• 1-2 pounds (approx. 450-900g) fresh, young plant material (e.g., comfrey leaves, nettle, dandelions, leafy weeds – avoid diseased plants)
• 1-2 pounds (approx. 450-900g) brown sugar or unsulphured molasses (equal weight to plant material)
• Non-reactive container (glass jar, ceramic crock, or food-grade plastic bucket)
• Plate or weight that fits inside the container
• Cloth cover and rubber band

For Worm Castings Tea:

• 1 gallon (approx. 3.8 liters) unchlorinated water
• 1-2 cups pure worm castings (vermicompost)
• Mesh bag (same as for compost tea)
• Optional: Aquarium air pump with air stone and tubing (for aerated worm tea)

For Herbal/Botanical Infusions (e.g., Horsetail for Silica, Chamomile for Anti-fungal):

• 1 gallon (approx. 3.8 liters) unchlorinated water
• 1-2 cups fresh or dried herb material (e.g., chopped horsetail, chamomile flowers, garlic cloves, hot peppers)
• Large pot or bucket
• Strainer or cheesecloth

Instructions

How to Make Actively Aerated Compost Tea (AACT):

1. Prepare Water: If using tap water, pour it into your brewing container and let it sit uncovered for at least 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate.
2. Set Up Aeration: Place the air stone into the brewing container and connect it to the air pump. Turn on the pump to ensure it’s working.
3. Load Compost: Place 1-2 cups of mature compost into a mesh bag. Tie the bag securely, leaving enough room for microbes to move freely.
4. Steep and Aerate: Submerge the compost-filled mesh bag into the unchlorinated water. If using molasses, add it directly to the water. The molasses serves as a food source to help beneficial microbes multiply.
5. Brew: Allow the tea to brew with continuous aeration for 12 to 36 hours. The ideal brewing time depends on ambient temperature and the quality of your compost. A good tea will have a rich, earthy smell, not a foul or rotten odor. If it smells bad, discard it.
6. Harvest: Once brewed, remove the compost bag. The liquid is your compost tea. Use it immediately for best results, ideally within 4-6 hours, and definitely within 24 hours. The beneficial aerobic microbes begin to die off once aeration stops.

How to Make Simple Fermented Plant Extract (FPE):

1. Gather and Prepare Plants: Collect fresh, young, vigorous plant material. Avoid any parts that show signs of disease or pest damage. Chop the plant material into small pieces (approximately 1-2 inches).
2. Layer with Sugar: In your non-reactive container, create alternating layers of chopped plant material and brown sugar/molasses. Start with a layer of sugar at the bottom, then a layer of plants, then sugar, and so on. Ensure the top layer is sugar, completely covering the plant material. Use roughly equal weights of plant material and sugar.
3. Weigh Down: Place a plate or a clean, heavy object directly on top of the sugar layer to press down the plant material. This helps to extract the plant juices and prevent mold.
4. Cover and Ferment: Cover the container loosely with a cloth and secure it with a rubber band. This allows air exchange while keeping pests out. Store the container in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight.
5. Monitor Fermentation: Over the next 1-2 weeks, the sugar will draw out the plant juices, and fermentation will begin. You’ll see liquid forming, and possibly some bubbling. Stir gently every few days with a clean utensil to ensure even fermentation and prevent mold. The FPE is ready when the plant material has broken down, and the liquid smells sweet and sour, like fruit vinegar or fermented fruit.
6. Strain and Store: Strain the liquid through a cheesecloth or fine mesh strainer, pressing out as much liquid as possible from the solids. Discard the solids in your compost. Store the finished FPE in an airtight, non-reactive bottle in a cool, dark place. It can last for several months.

How to Make Worm Castings Tea:

1. Prepare Water: Use unchlorinated water as described for compost tea.
2. Load Castings: Place 1-2 cups of pure worm castings into a mesh bag.
3. Steep: Submerge the bag of worm castings into the unchlorinated water.
4. Brew (Non-aerated): Allow it to steep for 12-24 hours, stirring occasionally. This creates a “worm casting extract.”
5. Brew (Aerated – Optional): For an “aerated worm tea,” follow the same steps as for AACT, adding an air pump and air stone for 12-24 hours. This will increase the microbial activity.
6. Harvest: Remove the bag of castings. The resulting liquid is your worm castings tea. Use immediately, especially if aerated.

How to Make Herbal/Botanical Infusions:

1. Prepare Water: Use unchlorinated water.
2. Combine Ingredients: Place 1-2 cups of fresh or dried herb material (e.g., chopped horsetail, chamomile flowers, crushed garlic cloves, sliced hot peppers) into a large pot or bucket. Add 1 gallon of unchlorinated water.
3. Infuse: For a “cold infusion,” let the mixture sit for 24-48 hours. For a “hot infusion” (which can extract more compounds but may degrade some delicate ones), bring the water to a boil, remove from heat, add the herbs, cover, and let steep until cool (several hours).
4. Strain: Strain the liquid through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth, pressing out any remaining liquid from the solids.
5. Use: Use the herbal infusion immediately. These are generally not stored for long periods.

Cooking Tips and Variations

• Water Quality is Key: Always use unchlorinated water. Chlorine can kill the beneficial microbes you’re trying to cultivate. Rainwater is ideal, but allowing tap water to sit out for 24-48 hours in an open container will allow chlorine to off-gas.
• Source Material Matters: For compost tea, use high-quality, mature compost that smells earthy and is teeming with life. For FPEs, choose young, vigorous, healthy plant material. Avoid diseased plants or compost made with diseased materials.
• Aeration for Compost/Worm Tea: While non-aerated “extracts” still provide nutrients, actively aerated teas (AACT) are generally superior because they promote the growth of beneficial aerobic microbes, preventing the development of harmful anaerobic pathogens.
• Smell Test: Your compost or worm tea should always smell fresh and earthy, never foul, rotten, or like sewage. A bad smell indicates anaerobic conditions and potential pathogens; discard it and start over. FPEs should smell sweet and sour, like vinegar or fermented fruit.
• Dilution is Crucial: Especially when starting, err on the side of dilution. Over-concentrated applications can sometimes shock plants. A typical starting dilution for foliar spray is 1:10 (1 part tea to 9 parts water) and for soil drench 1:4 to 1:10. FPEs are typically diluted much more, often 1:500 to 1:1000.
• Timing for Foliar Sprays: Apply foliar sprays in the early morning or late afternoon/evening. This prevents rapid evaporation and potential leaf burn from sun exposure, allowing the leaves more time to absorb the beneficial compounds.
• Experiment with FPE Ingredients: Different plants offer different benefits. Comfrey is excellent for potassium and trace minerals, nettle for nitrogen, dandelion for trace minerals and growth hormones, and various weeds can contribute a broad spectrum of nutrients.
• Molasses as Microbial Food: In compost and worm teas, a small amount of unsulphured molasses can act as a simple sugar source, encouraging rapid microbial proliferation.
• Garlic/Pepper Sprays for Pests: For pest deterrents, steep crushed garlic cloves or hot peppers (e.g., habaneros) in water. Dilute and spray on affected plants. Always test on a small area first to ensure it doesn’t harm the plant.
• Horsetail for Strength: Horsetail infusion is rich in silica, which strengthens plant cell walls, making them more resistant to fungal diseases and insect attacks.
• Chamomile for Health: Chamomile tea can have mild anti-fungal properties and can be used as a gentle tonic for seedlings or stressed plants.

Storage and Reheating

Unlike food, natural infused waters are living solutions, and their “shelf life” depends heavily on the type and whether they are aerated.

• Actively Aerated Compost Tea (AACT) & Aerated Worm Tea: These should be used immediately after brewing, ideally within 4-6 hours, and definitely within 24 hours of turning off the aeration. Once aeration stops, the beneficial aerobic microbes begin to die off, and anaerobic (potentially harmful) microbes can start to proliferate. Do not store these.
• Non-Aerated Worm Castings Extract: This can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for a few days to a week. However, potency will decrease over time as microbial activity slows.
• Fermented Plant Extracts (FPEs): Once strained and bottled, FPEs can be stored in an airtight, non-reactive bottle (glass is ideal) in a cool, dark place for several months to a year. Their fermentation process makes them stable. You might notice a slight “pop” when opening the bottle due to gas buildup, which is normal.
• Herbal/Botanical Infusions: These are best used fresh, within 24-48 hours of brewing. They typically do not contain the same preservative qualities as FPEs and can spoil quickly.
• Reheating: Do not “reheat” or re-aerate infused waters that have gone anaerobic or stale. This will not revive them and could introduce harmful elements to your garden. Always brew fresh for optimal results.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use synthetic fertilizer in conjunction with natural infused waters?

It is generally not recommended to use synthetic fertilizers alongside natural infused waters, especially those rich in beneficial microbes like compost tea or worm castings tea. Synthetic fertilizers, particularly those with high salt content, can be detrimental to the delicate microbial ecosystem that these infused waters are designed to foster. The goal of using infused waters is to build soil health and a thriving microbiome, which can be undermined by chemical inputs. For best results, commit to an organic approach when using these natural remedies.

My compost tea smells bad. What went wrong?

A foul, rotten, or sewage-like smell in your compost tea indicates that it has gone anaerobic. This means that harmful, putrefying bacteria have taken over due to a lack of oxygen. This can happen if your aeration is insufficient, if the brewing time is too long, or if you started with poor quality, anaerobic compost. Anaerobic teas can harm your plants and introduce pathogens. If your tea smells bad, it’s best to discard it and start fresh, ensuring proper aeration and using good quality compost.

How often should I apply infused waters to my garden?

The application frequency depends on the specific infused water and your garden’s needs. For general plant health and soil building, a weekly to bi-weekly application during the active growing season is a good starting point. For seedlings or stressed plants, more frequent, diluted applications might be beneficial. For pest deterrents, apply as needed. It’s always wise to observe your plants’ response and adjust. Regular, consistent application at appropriate dilutions is more effective than infrequent, heavy doses.